You can get a better insight into Pompei and Herculaneum if you eat like a Roman while you're there
On a short trip to Pompei and Naples recently, I got a fascinating insight into the eating habits of the Romans.
In Pompei and Herculaneum you can see the remains of large bread ovens – bread was a staple Roman food and often eaten dipped in olive oil, or wine. There are also several stalls known as thermopolia, which had counters from which hot food was served: they were the Roman equivalent of fast food outlets – you could get things like beans, vegetables and hot drinks.
The Romans also enjoyed ‘lagane’ – which evolved into today’s lasagne, and two sorts of pizza: one was soft (artolaganum), the other was crispy (tracta). But don’t think they looked like today’s pizza – tomatoes didn’t arrive in Italy 'till much later.
I found a great restaurant that serves classic dishes inspired by ancient Rome. It’s Il Principe (piazza Bartolo Longo) and is in the modern town, close to the ruins of Pompei. You can try things like pasta made from spelt (an ancient relative of wheat), and a sophisticated version of garum (the most common Roman sauce, made from salted fish). They serve local wines too – the most distinctive of which is Lachrymi Christi – the grapes are grown on the slopes of Vesuvius.
Another restaurant we checked out was in the little town of Gragnano, once famed for its pasta factories. They still make it (but not by hand) at Maccaroneria Afeltra (Via Roma). The shop's filled with every shape of pasta you can imagine – and if you ask they’ll take you round the little factory. There’s an osteria there too. On busy nights there’s music – and the owner gets up and sings.
To find out more about Campania click here. Or find out how to make Roman granita.
