The Tuscan city of Siena can be a bit of a maze, and the best places to eat often hard to find. So here are a few suggestions for where to go.
Renaissance masterpieces from Siena came to London in October. A new blockbuster show at London’s National Gallery – Renaissance Siena: Art For a City – exhibits works of art of the Sienese school, including a rarely seen statue of St Catherine of Siena, as well as paintings, drawings and ceramics.
Siena is close to Chianti Country and it’s likely that the exhibition will encourage people to visit the city itself, which is one of the most stunning cities in Tuscany – and certainly the most atmospheric. A good time then, for a look at just a few of the best places to eat while on holiday in Siena - many tucked away in back streets that are off the tourist trail. All of them get very busy, so you’re best to book in advance. For more information you can see the Footprint guide to Siena.
Places to Eat for a Sienese Treat:
Cane e Gatto
A favourite of locals wanting to treat themselves is Cane e Gatto (0577 287545), tucked away on via Pagliaresi 6 (closed Thursday). This is in the terzo di San Martino, the Renaissance district of the city, in a back street often missed by tourists. Cane e Gatto (the name means ‘dog and cat’) is run by a couple who use seasonal local ingredients to produce a special ‘tasting menu’. This usually features six dishes and is a real treat for gourmets.
Le Logge
Also in terzo di San Martino, but closer to the Campo – Siena’s central piazza – Osteria Le Logge (0577 48013), Via del Porrione 31, is a well established, lively place that attracts well heeled locals and visitors in equal measure. It’s a good place to try local specialities such as Cinta Senese – a Sienese breed of pig, and lovely pasta with porcini mushrooms when in season.
Osteria da Divo
This osteria is in the terzo di Citta, the oldest of the three terzi that make up the city. Osteria da Divo (0577 284381) is on Via Franciosa 29, not far from Siena’s stunning Duomo (cathedral). You dine in what feels like an ancient cellar – some say they’re the remains of Etruscan tombs – on Tuscan food that’s been given a contemporary twist.
Cheap and Cheerful:
Il Grattacielo
Everyone in Siena seems to come here at lunchtime. Il Grattacielo (0577 289326), Via dei Pontani, is a tiny osteria in Terzo di Camollia – the terzo that’s home to one of the city’s busiest shopping streets, Via Banchi di Sopra. You don’t get much choice – the owners just cook whatever they consider is best that day, and you’ll struggle to find a seat. But it’s friendly, fun and authentic – and great value. You’ll probably find potatoes, slices of proscuitto, cheeses and salads.
La Chiacchera
For great value local dishes, La Chiacchera (0577 280631) Costa di Sant’Antonio, is the place to come. It’s also in Terzo di Camollia, not far from the Casa di Santa Caterina (home of the city’s patron saint, St Catherine). La Chiacchera is on a steep hill, so the seats and tables outside can wobble a bit. The menu is always short and simple (you might find pici, the local version of spaghetti; or a traditional Tuscan stew of sausage with beans). There’s no cover charge – unusual in Italy, and it gets pretty crowded.
Coffee and Cakes:
Nannini
There are plenty of lovely cafes in Siena, but Nannini (0577 236009) on Via Banchi di Sopra, is certainly the best known. It was opened in 1931 and is a favourite local stop for a morning swig of espresso – and perhaps a delicious pastry too. In the early evening it’s a popular place to have an aperitif.
