The Gourmet Vegetarian in Italy
The Vegeterranean Cookbook: Veggie Recipes from the Mediterranean
If you fancy trying your hand at some gourmet vegetarian recipes, check out The Vegeterranean, a new Italian cookbook.
Gourmet vegetarian food can be difficult to find and vegetarian recipe books can often be a bit – well - dull. But now, the owners of an hotel in Umbria have brought out a glossy cookbook devoted to vegetarian cuisine, with recipes that would please the most demanding gourmet. It’s called The Vegeterranean, by Malu Simoes and Alberto Musacchio (£25, pub Simon and Schuster): the title a bit of tongue twister, in order to make the point that the book features Mediterranean veggie food.
Aphrodisiac Truffles from Umbria
Malu Simoes and Alberto Musacchio own the Country House Montali, a vegetarian hotel near Perugia, in Umbria. Malu, an acclaimed vegetarian chef, was born in Brazil but has spent most of her life in Italy. Their book, illustrated with colourful photos, not only conveys their passion for fine vegetarian food but also has plenty of personal touches. Anecdotes are scattered throughout the book, covering everything from their horror at the decreasing size of kitchens in modern houses to how they built up their hotel business and the problem of recruiting good staff. There’s also an interesting section on the history of two culinary treasures of Umbria – truffles and saffron. Truffles, they say, were dedicated to Venus, the goddess of love, in the Roman Empire. Their aphrodisiac qualities were considered so powerful that doctors prescribed them to impotent patients – a sort of culinary Viagra.
Asparagus Antipasti
The book starts with a section on ‘Basics’ – in which you learn how to make essentials such as pesto sauce, tomato sauce and pastry. It’s then divided into chapters that correspond to courses: in Prima Colazione (breakfast) there’s a recipe for a delicious homemade muesli, while Antipasti (starters) covers old favourites such as bruschetta as well as imaginative bites like their Cappuccino di Asparagi – a stunning starter of asparagus and cream served in champagne glasses.
Italian Regional Recipes
The Vegeterranean, as you might expect, is particularly strong on Italian regional recipes and the authors have tried to keep as close as possible to the original. In a section devoted to Pane and Pizza (breads) they explain why Tuscan bread is traditionally unsalted. It dates back to the 12th-century, when Pisa blocked the salt supply to Florence, its rival city.
Recognising that some ingredients might be difficult to find outside Italy, they’ve taken the practical step of suggesting alternatives that you might find easier to source. They’ve also catered for differing cooking abilities by using a ‘traffic light’ system to indicate if a recipe is easy (green), medium (amber) or difficult (red).
Ravioli from the South Tyrol
The recipes are inspiring and imaginative. In Primi (first courses) you’ll find Ravioli sud Tirolesi – spinach and potato ravioli from the south Tyrol, that can be topped with either a shallot or juniper cream sauce. There’s also a classic saffron risotto, Sardinian gnocchi and an unusual dish called Pizzoccheri, which is a northern Italian dish made with buckwheat pasta.
Radicchio, Ricotta and an Avocado Pudding
Secondi (second courses) in The Vegeterranean include sophisticated Cannoli di Radicchio e Pere – pastry rolls filled with an unusual mix of radicchio, pear and smoked cheese; and Sformatini di Zucchine, a dainty ricotta and courgette flan. Dolci, the final section devoted to desserts, has an international flavour. It includes classics such as Tiramisu, as well as an exotic looking avocado pudding from Brazil, an indulgent chocolate and ricotta soufflé, and a sacher torte from Vienna. Of course, if you can’t be bothered cooking these dishes yourself, then you can book yourself a holiday at the Country House Montali and they’ll cook them for you.
