Restaurant Review: La Trattoria - Greenwood, IN
Authentic Italian Cuisine on the South Side of Indianapolis Reopens
Jul 29, 2009
La Trattoria is an Italian restaurant located on Indianapolis’ south side, technically in Greenwood, Indiana. A fire last year facilitated a near total interior remodeling, but unfortunately the food did not receive the same treatment. First, La Trattoria has some redeeming qualities – a few excellent appetizers, a great wine list and outdoor seating to name a few. But much of the food is clearly frozen, and the steaks – once rightly counted among the best in Indianapolis – seem to have fallen a few notches.
Authentic Italian Cuisine in Greenwood Indiana Opens With a Bang…and a Fizzle
The owners of La Trattoria certainly understand that any Italian food restaurant without a good wine list is no good. There is a nice selection of reds and whites, not to mention the owners special reserve section containing some of the more expensive wines available only by the bottle. Bread, on the other hand is obvioully frozen, and to add insult to injury you cannot get the table bread without butter – at all!
Appetizers are more or less standard fare with two exceptions. First is the Fungo Ripieno which is a portabella mushroom baked with various cheeses and olive oil. While the dish may be a bit greasy and heavy for some, this appetizer is one of the best dishes La Trattoria has to offer, and it comes highly recommended. On the opposite end of the spectrum is the shrimp cocktail. In an effort to compete with St. Elmo’s appetizer, La Trattoria has created a cocktail sauce which is quite frankly horseradish with a dash of cocktail sauce. Even for those who love horseradish, this mixture is a bit much. It doesn’t help that the apparently store bought frozen shrimp is rubbery and sometimes warm.
La Trattoria’s Steaks – Best in Indy?
The steaks, in particular the filet, at La Trattoria were good enough to win an award before the fire. The author was lucky enough to have tried the filet and tilapia combo several times and can confirm they were deserving. After the fire, the steaks have surely lost a step. Since the reopening, it seems equally likely that the steak will be undercooked as overcooked. Only speculation here, but perhaps the chef responsible for the award winning steaks was not able to suffer the remodeling period.
It's unfortunate that the steaks appear to have fallen so far, because La Trattoria was always a better steakhouse than it was an authentic Italian food restaurant. While the baked pastas aren’t terrible, they are nearly indistinguishable from those bought frozen at the grocery store. The rest of the pasta may be handmade, but it all has the air of frozen – or at best pre-made – food.
La Trattoria is a South Side Indy tradition and fans are no doubt hoping for a complete turn around. Poorly cooked steaks, grocery store garlic bread, and awful shrimp cocktail do not do the reputation of La Trattoria, the city of Greenwood, or the owners the justice they deserve.
La Trattoria
201 N Madison Ave
Greenwood, IN 46142-3633
(317) 859-0487
 |
