Anyone who has compared the prices of true balsamic vinegar to a regular red wine vinegar has probably suffered a pretty severe case of sticker shock. What's all the fuss over a bottle of spoiled wine? And why should the spoiled wine cost more than my good wine? Valid questions that have sprung into the minds of many. So what does give it both the unique flavor and the price tag?
Wine Style Production of Balsamic Vinegar
One of the major differences between balsamic vinegar and a generic red wine vinegar is how the vinegar begins. The strong, sweet, pungent flavor has much to do with the birthing from "mosto cotto" or cooked must. Where vinegars are normally formed from wines that have completed the fermentation process and then oxidized, balsamic begins from unfermented must. Instead of allowing the must to ferment and form wine it is cooked first and then fermented. This is why balsamic vinegar has the sweet quality that is not present in other vinegars.
After the must is prepared it is then ready to begin the aging process. The aging process is incredibly complex and incredibly long and it is the reason that the price tags on premium true balsamic vinegars can rival those of vintage wines. Rather than a simple one barrel process that most people are familiar with in wine aging, the vinegar is put through a minimum 12 year process that involves at least seven different types of barrels. The barrels become smaller with progression, intensifying the predominance of the notes of the last barrels because of the increased amount of contact with the wood.
Where Does Balsamic Vinegar Come From?
True balsamic is produced in only two places, Modena and Reggio Emilia, both in Emiglia Romagna and within 20 km of each other. This is the same region that gives the world Parmagiano Reggiano cheese and some of the best prosciutto so that is why balsamic pairs so well with them. The region has produced this delicacy for hundreds of years and learning the proper techniques takes an immense amount of time. The length of time from harvesting the Trebbiano grapes to bottling the vinegar means this is a difficult and costly enterprise to start up. This is why less than 3000 gallons of true balsamic are produced annually. True balsamic is labeled as aceto balsamico tradizionale.
Is There a Less Costly Alternative to Balsamic Vinegar?
Yes, actually. And some of the less costly alternatives are actually quite good. For most people, no matter how sophisticated your palate, spending $100 or more on 100ml of a condiment is not a budget friendly option. For production outside of the two consortia that are legally allowed to use the tradizionale term many actually use the same techniques. There are quite a few producers that follow the same path as the traditional makers but are outside of the consortia.
If you find condimento balsamico that has been aged for 12 years the flavor differences should be minimal or nominal but the price difference should be significant. It still will be fairly costly because the production methods are costly. It is key to look for aging information because this label permits a lot of variability and some of those labeled as condimento balsamico are no better than the lowest grade, aceto balsamico di Modena. Most of these are actually still of decent quality but they are not worth the price tags that the higher grades justify.
Best Uses for Balsamic vinegar
For the premium, true balsamic should be used very sparingly. Not only does the price usually demand this, but the strength of the flavor will overpower most foods in all but the most minuscule quantities. Literally a drop on thin slice of Parmagiano or prosciutto will make a flavor play that dances in your mouth.
Condiment grade balsamic, still pricey, is best used in drizzles. A light little ribbon over ripe summer strawberries or swirled over a panna cotta is wonderful. Both condiment grade and commercial grade will work extremely well in salads and other dishes that are never touched by heat.
When making reduction sauces, or whenever more than momentary heat is involved in a dish the nuance that is created in the higher grades by the successive aging process is destroyed. When you will be heating the vinegar in any type of reduction or baking, reach for the commercial grade balsamic and nothing will be lost in translation or in your budget.
