Even before Italian immigrants stepped onto American soil, their resolution was strong in their journey and desire to make another country their home. They left the land of their ancestors, families, and friends in exchange for a new life; but they brought their Italian traditions and food with them.
The traditions included the festivals, most in honor of saints; and the food was their tie to the homeland. Many immigrants were able to relate to an American Thanksgiving through the popular mid-November Festa di San Martino, a celebration of thanks for a bountiful harvest; and the foods of the classic Thanksgiving meal of the new country were easily adaptable to the Italian diet.
Chestnuts Common in Italy
Chestnuts, castagne, were so widely used in Italy they were very often referred to as “food of the poor.” Most sources note that the chestnut spread throughout Europe during the Roman Empire; the trees planted as the Empire grew. Late summer and fall are the seasons for chestnuts in Italy; and the versatile chestnut can be roasted, baked, boiled, candied, and dried. It's used in recipes from soup to dessert, including being ground into flour. With chestnuts readily available, Italian cooks could recreate the comforting recipes of the old country.
Pumpkin Filled Pasta
Pumpkin, commonly known as zucca, was also easily adaptable to the Italian palate; used—instead of in dessert—in savory dishes, and especially as a filling for pasta. The origin of pumpkin in Europe is divided between being introduced to Europe from Asia at a very early date and traveling to the Old World from the New World. Whatever course it took, pumpkin became a popular food that could be baked, sautéed, fried, mashed, or stuffed; and even the pumpkin blossoms are edible.
Turkey Replaces Peacock
The mottled feathers of the turkey eventually gave way to its Italian name, tacchino, derived from the French tache, meaning a spot or stain. In the early sixteenth century, the large bird imported to Europe from the New World had many names, and was commonly called the “rooster of India.” Sometimes attributed to the new continent that was, at first, thought to be India. The turkey quickly replaced the peacock as the bird of choice—the turkey being more flavorful and tender. A recipe published in 1570 by one of the most famous chefs at the time, Bartolomeo Scappi, notes, “This bird cooks much more quickly than the peacock.”
The Italian American Thanksgiving
The Italian immigrants combined the best of their cucina with American customs to create the typical Italian American Thanksgiving. First, the antipasto—thinly sliced cured meats neatly rolled into cones or logs, layered with wedges, slices, and chunks of provolone, mozzarella, Parmigiano Reggiano, Pecorino Romano, and/or Grana Padano. The platter is artfully decorated with pepperoncini, black olives, and marinated green olives, red peppers, dried tomatoes, mushrooms, artichoke hearts, and other delicacies; dotted with strips of anchovies and sprinkled with capers; and served with crisp Italian bread and a light wine.
The antipasto is followed by soup or pasta—gnocchi, cavatelli, pumpkin ravioli, tortellini, or homemade manicotti—usually served with meatballs, braciole, pieces of pork, garlic bread, and a heartier wine. Next, the turkey, with chestnut and sausage stuffing or stuffed with seasoned breadcrumbs, raisins, and pignoli. On the side, breaded cauliflower and broccoli, mashed potatoes with mozzarella, the American cranberry sauce, more garlic bread, and a more robust wine.
Just as soon as the table is cleared, the nuts, fruits, and chocolates appear; and shortly after, coffee, liqueurs, and dessert. An elaborate torta, maybe a ricotta cheesecake or cassata, and an assortment of Italian pastries and cookies bring a sweet end to a day of old traditions and new customs.
Sources
Columbus Menu: Italian Cuisine after the First Voyage of Christopher Columbus by Stefano Milioni
Festa: Recipes and Recollections of Italian Holidays by Helen Barolini
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